Travel Feature: Oslo Christmas markets

by Glen Pearce

Even among a nation that isn’t known for gregarious displays of emotion, Oslovians are noted for their reserve. But that reserve goes out the window in December when the city welcomes Jul and the Christmas spirit spreads like wildfire.

You will likely also see restaurants and bars bustling with friends and coworkers celebrating julebrod – the Christmas party. The city comes alive at this time of year, making it the perfect place to spend a long weekend experiencing the joy of the season.

Sparkling lights on Oslo’s streets. Photo by Glen Pearce.

There are plenty of flights to Oslo’s Gardemoen Airport from the UK, and once there, travellers will be impressed by the sleek, well-equipped airport design. Located around 35km northeast of Oslo, arriving passengers will require onward ground transportation. Again, this is well-planned, there is a well-designed train station inside the terminal that provides access to both local services and the fast airport service Flytoget.

As those who have experienced it will attest, in the UK getting a train from London to Gatwick can be a hassle but, with Flytoget, you can be in the heart of the city in just 19 minutes. The trains are modern, sleek, and quick. British rail travellers will be green with envy over the trains’ immaculate cleanliness, modern design, ample seating, and convenient amenities like Wi-Fi and charging points.

Lights and fairground rides at Jul i Vinterland. Photo by Glen Pearce.

If you’ve not learnt any Norwegian before your trip, don’t panic, the train journey has announcements and signage in both Norwegian and English. Even if you think you’ve mastered Norwegian, you might be startled to get a response in flawless English because Norwegians are justifiably proud of their linguistic abilities. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try learning Norwegian of course; it just means you shouldn’t be surprised if someone answers your “tusen takk” (thank you) with a “you’re welcome!”

Both the main Central Station and the National Theatre interchange, which is close to the Royal Palace, are stops for Flytoget in central Oslo. Despite the apparent preference for Oslo’s Central Station, the second station leads directly to the city’s Christmas market, Jul i Vinterland, making it the perfect starting point for a festive holiday adventure through Oslo.  Be careful to exit via Karl Johan Gate, the city’s main pedestrian route, rather than the parking lot entrance, as the latter may land you a few blocks away from your intended destination.

Jul i Vinterland. Photo by Glen Pearce

Although most of Oslo’s attractions are within easy walking distance from the city centre, the efficient public transportation system is on full display at the National Theatre interchange, where you can catch trams, buses, and the underground to go all over the city. To buy system-wide tickets, use the RuterBillett app (it’s in English).

There is a huge Ferris wheel at the Christmas Market that marks the beginning of Jul i Vinterland, which you will not be able to miss as you leave the station. After nightfall, which arrives early in this region in December, the sight of Karl Johan Gate’s avenue of trees adorned with Christmas lights is particularly moving. It’s a popular spot for locals and visitors to meet up, whether it’s to skate on the main rink (free but skate rental is extra), shop for holiday gifts at the many wooden chalets selling everything from snacks to the ubiquitous Scandi knitwear, or simply relax with a drink by one of the fire pits.

Warm up by the fire pit with a glass of Gløgg. Photo by Glen Pearce

As you hold a cup of Gløgg in your hands, you will likely get your first real taste of Norwegian Christmas around those flames. Norwegian Gløgg is a far more refined mixture than your average mulled wine from the United Kingdom or Germany. The ideal jul flavour is available in both alcoholic and non-alcoholic varieties, and both are best enjoyed warm. There are ready-made Gløgg mixtures available at local supermarkets for folks who want to enjoy the experience of Gløgg when they’re away.

Glen enjoying traditional hot Gløgg.

Those grocery stores also provide a plethora of holiday treats, like chocolates and marzipan figures, which are a staple in Norwegian Christmas traditions. Due to Norway’s strict alcohol sales restrictions visit a state-run off-licence (Vinmonopolet) or wait until duty-free at the airport if you’re interested in stocking up on Norwegian Aquavit, a carraway-infused spirit, another festive favourite of Norway.

Even if you’re not into shopping, ice skating, or Gløgg, Jul i Vinterland has live entertainment on certain nights and a breathtaking view of the city at night from the Ferris Wheel. For those seeking the perfect Instagram shot, the beautiful Stjernehimmelen (Starry sky) light tunnel, constructed out of thousands of sparkling LED lights, has been a photographic favourite since 2018.

Stjernehimmelen (Starry sky) light tunnel. Photo by Glen Pearce.

From the tail end of November all the way into December, you can visit the city’s main Christmas market. As the big day approaches, though, you’ll also find a number of smaller craft and Christmas markets, like the Annual Christmas Fare at the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, where you can have a taste of Christmas past.

Here you may walk into Norway’s past and enjoy a genuine taste of Christmas past with more than a hundred booths selling decorations, food, and crafts. The high point of the holiday season for many Oslo residents, this event runs the first two weekends in December.

Sweet treats galore at the festive markets. Photo credit Visit Oslo.

The compact city centre of Oslo invites visitors to explore side streets away from the organised Markets. While a shopping trip to Norway will never be cheap due to the country’s notoriously high prices, those seeking unique gifts, particularly handcrafted items that embody Nordic design, will be pleasantly surprised.

Karl Johan Gate is the main retail street, although the shopping centres surrounding the central station and the renovated waterfront of Aker Brygge are also worth a visit. It also visits the gift stores of some of Oslo’s world-renowned cultural institutions, such as the Munch Museum, the Deichman Library, and the new National Museum. These places provide unique gift ideas set against breathtaking architectural backdrops.

Deichman Library. Photo by Glen Pearce.

Oslo, like any major city, has a wide variety of places to stay. However, if you’re planning a trip to the Christmas markets, the Scandic Victoria is a great choice. It’s only a two-minute walk from the main Jul I Vinterland market, and it’s also close to the City Hall and the coastline of Oslo Fjord.

The Scandic Hotel, which doesn’t look too fancy from the outside, has several different types of rooms that all have Scandic decor. Rooms can have either an interior or street view, however, those who have trouble sleeping might want to request a room away from City Hall, where the Carillon clock rings every quarter of an hour from early to late, which might be a bit much to bear.

Scandic Victoria Hotel. Photo credit Scandic Hotels.

Guests won’t have to venture far from the hotel to discover an abundance of restaurants, thanks to its convenient downtown location. The hotel does, however, provide a large buffet breakfast and a restricted lobby bar service.

An authentic, old-fashioned Christmas in Oslo is sure to put a smile on the face of anyone who is sick of the commercialisation of the holiday season. Just be careful not to provoke the naughty trolls!

The National Museum shop. Photo credit Visit Oslo/Didrick Stenersen

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